Professor Cocktail

Whiskey Review: Tullamore Dew

Tullamore Dew
Blended Irish Whiskey
Final Grade: B
Price: $20 (750ml)

Tullamore Dew is an old brand of Irish whiskey, first distilled in Tullamore, Ireland in 1829. It's gone though many changes, owners and locations over the years, and is currently owned by spirits conglomerate William Grant & Sons, makers of Glenfiddich and The Balvenie scotches, amongst other brands. It is currently made at New Midleton Distillery in County Cork, although Grant & Sons recently announced plans to build a new distillery in the town of Tullamore.

Tullamore Dew, sometimes referred to as "Original," is the entry-level expression of the whiskey. (There are also 10-year and 12-year-old versions available.) It has a pale-gold color in the glass, accompanied by the sweet, honeyed aroma of cereal grain that fades quickly. So far it is about what you'd expect of a basic blended Irish whiskey -- those familiar with Jameson or Bushmills will recognize it.

Those traditional characteristics continue on the palate, with a medium-sweet, honey flavor, with a fair bit of heat on the finish. Tullamore Dew isn't as smooth as most older whiskeys, or those containing a higher proportion of malt whiskey (like my favorite, Bushmills Black Bush), but the finish is quick, so it's not unpleasant to sip. From the taste, I assume this is made with a high percerntage of grain, rather than malt, whiskey.

There really isn't much about Tullamore Dew that is distinctive. The distiller clearly wasn't trying to break any new ground here. Rather it is a well-made, traditional Irish whiskey blended to a middle-of-the-road, but still pleasing, profile. It is a tasty, well-balanced spirit, good enough and affordable enough to drink every day and to mix in the cocktail of your choice.

Report Card

Quality Grade: B
Value Grade: B
Final Grade: B

George T. Stagg Bourbon Named Top Spirit in the World for 2nd Year in a Row

I have yet to have the pleasure of tasting George T. Stagg bourbon, but it is almost universally acclaimed as outstanding.

For the second year in row, George T. Stagg, the iconic uncut, unfiltered bourbon released annually from Buffalo Trace Distillery, has been named the number one spirit in the world by noted spirits reviewer F. Paul Pacult.

The list, compiled annually by Pacult, will be released in his June 2012 issue of The Spirit Journal. Last year, George T. Stagg was the first American Whiskey to ever be named number one in The Spirit Journal’s 13 years of tabulating. Stagg knocked off the perennial favorite Highland Park 18 Scotch Whisky for the first time ever, and this year the Stagg beat out a Northern Highlands Single Malt Scotch. 

Notes Pacult about this year’s winners, “Spirits are continually getting better and more sophisticated each year. It’s no surprise to us that three of the top five spirits in the world hail from Kentucky, which right now is one of the hotbeds of distilling prowess.”

The George T. Stagg Bourbon Whiskey is part of the Antique Collection that is released each fall from Buffalo Trace Distillery. Long considered the frontrunner of the Collection, the Stagg has collected numerous awards over the years, including the 2012 Bourbon of the Year; the 2012 Second Finest Whiskey in the World from Jim Murray’s 2012 Whisky Bible; 2012 Gold Medal, San Francisco World Spirits Competition; 2011 Ultimate Spirits Competition Chairman’s Trophy Winner; 2011 Double Gold Winner, Best Bourbon, San Francisco World Spirits Competition; the 2010 American Whiskey of the Year from Jim Murray’s 2010 Whiskey Bible; 2009 Bourbon of the Year and Best Bourbon Aged 13-17 Years from Jim Murray’s 2009 Whiskey Bible; among others.

The 2012 version of the George T. Stagg will be released later this fall with the Antique Collection.  Suggested retail pricing of the Stagg is $69.99.

The Cheat Sheet: The Professor's Guide to the Best Cocktail and Spirits Links

"The light music of whiskey falling into a glass - an agreeable interlude." --James Joyce

• In the Washington Post, Jason Wilson examines the explosion in the market for orange curacao liqueurs.
• More from Jason Wilson: in the Philadelphia Daily News: a guide to bar-hopping in Atlantic City.
• In the New York Times, Robert Simonson writes about one of the popular new trends: high-proof spirits. (These are spirits that contain a higher alcohol content than the typical 40%.)
• Also in the Times, Eric Asimov contemplates the new rules of summer drinking: red wine and bourbon before Labor Day?
• Also in the Times, Rosie Schaap updates that perfect warm-weather libation: the wine spritzer.
• In the San Francisco Chronicle, Gary Regan discusses alternatives to the traditional brunch cocktails (aka, the various Bloodys: Mary, Bull, etc.). His suggestion: a Celery Cooler with tequila.
• In Esquire Magazine, David Wonderich names Milwaukee the Bar City of the Year.
• More from David Wondrich, also in Esquire: Wondrich talks shots, offering a primer on the classic shooters.
• In The Atlantic, Wayne Curtis talks about the identity crisis in Cognac.
• On the Reuters wire, Kara Newman shares the latest edition of the Spirited Traveler: a journey to Sweden in search of the elusive Swedish Punsch.
• In the Boston Globe, Joel Brown investigates the return of Ipswitch rum.
• On The Cocktail Spirit, Robert Hess shows you how to make a Red Snapper (video).
• In CLASS Magazine, Simon Difford and Ian Cameron round up five Creme de Menthe liqueurs. Top marks go to Giffard Menthe Pastille.
• Also in CLASS, Camper English takes a trip through America's whiskey distilleries.
• Liquor.com is also talking high-proof spirits, courtesy of bartender Dushan Zaric.
• Liquor.com also offers up some suggestions for new coffee cocktails, courtesy of St. John Frizell (owner of Fort Defiance bar in Brooklyn).
• CBS Sunday Morning takes a look at rum's spirited history . (Article plus video.)
• On Serious Eats, Michael Dietsch presents a guide to vodka. (Vodka is much-derided among many in the cocktail community, but I still consider myself a fan.)
• Also on Serious Eats, Alice Gao takes a trip to the Dominican Republic to see how Brugal Rum is made.
• A bit late, but still useful: on the Huffington Post, Tony Sachs shares his suggestions for the best bourbons for Derby Day. (They're good suggestions for any time, though.)
• On Creative Loafing, Brad Kaplan discusses the current state of Southern cocktail culture.
• Do you really want a cocktail made with stinging nettles? Well, if you do, these guys will show you how to make one.
• Is Spodee the worst name ever for a beverage? Steven Grasse, the brains behind Hendrick's Gin and Sailor Jerry Rum, doesn't think so. It's a blend of fortified wine and high-proof white whiskey (aka moonshine).
• Weekly Pint rounds up this summer's seven best beer festivals.

That's it for now. If you have any suggestions for next week's round-up, please let me know.

2012 Spirited Awards - Finalists

The organizers of Tales of the Cocktail, the most popular cocktail festival in the United States, have announced the finalists for the 6th Annual Spirited Awards. The awards recognize the bartenders, bars, writers and cocktail experts that are working to drive the cocktail industry into new, exciting directions.

The complete list of finalists is included after the jump. Congrats to all the nominees!

Cocktail of the Day: Millionaire Cocktail

Millionaire Cocktail

2 oz Dark Jamaican Rum
1 oz Sloe Gin
1 oz Apricot Brandy
3/4 oz Lime Juice

Shake with ice and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

Adapted from a recipe by Ted "Dr. Cocktail" Haigh (Vintage Spirits and Forgotten Cocktails), which was itself adapted from a recipe in Harry Craddock's The Savoy Cocktail Book.

Rum Review: Denizen Rum

Denizen Rum
Dutch Rum
Final Grade: A-
Price: $14 (750ml)

Denizen Rum is something of a paradox. It's a Caribbean rum, but it is blended in Europe. It's an aged rum, but it is crystal clear. It's a quality rum, but it is sold at a very affordable price. One thing is no mystery, however: this rum is a winner.

Denizen begins with aged Trinidadian rum from the Angostura distillery, which is charcoal filtered to remove all color. It is then blended in the Netherlands with small amounts of 15 different pot-distilled Jamaican rums, giving it much more flavor and body than is typically found in clear rum.

And clear it is. Denizen has a bright, clean appearance, accompanied by a subtle floral, sugar cane aroma. It has a silky, medium-bodied mouthfeel -- it's immediately apparent that this rum hasn't been distilled to death. There's still a lot of character here.

The flavor is spicy and dry, only slightly sweet, with a medium-long finish. It definitely has some heat to it that reminds you you're drinking rum. You can also taste the vanilla and oak that indicate it spent some time in wood.

Denizen is certainly a rum you can sip neat, especially with a couple ice cubes to cool its fire a bit. But it really shines in cocktails. Almost any drink that calls for a white rum, from a Daiquiri to a Mojito to a Piña Colada, will be improved by the use of Denizen rum. Its versatility means you can use it virtually anywhere with good results.

Best of all, this rum won't break the bank. You can buy a bottle from DrinkUpNY for only $13. Most of the time you can't even find Bacardi for that cheap, and this rum runs circles around that better-known brand.

Currently, Denizen is only available in New York State, but hopefully they'll be getting wider distribution soon. This is a rum that's too good to pass by.

Report Card:

Quality Grade: B+
Value Grade: A
Final Grade: A-

The Cheat Sheet: The Professor's Guide to the Best Cocktail and Spirits Links

“When you stop drinking, you have to deal with this marvelous personality that started you drinking in the first place.” --Jimmy Breslin

• In the New York Times, Robert Simonson takes a Tiki tour around the greater New York area.
• More from Robert Simonson, also in the Times: some classic cocktails don't deserve to be rediscovered, as this panel discussion related.
• Also in the Times, the great Mark Bittman lists twelve summer cocktails that actually taste like booze.
• Wayne Curtis wanted to have part of an iceberg sent to Manhattan. Turns out it was a lot harder than he anticipated.
• In the Wall Street Journal, Rebecca Rothbaum reports on the Manhattan Cocktail Classic, which took place over the past several days.
• More from Rebecca Rothbaum, also in the Journal: cocktail nerds are visiting a Brooklyn bar for the chance to mix drinks in a cocktail shaker once owned by Charles H. Baker Jr.
• In Forbes Magazine, Steven Bertoni does a tequila tasting with John Paul DeJoria, the billionaire founder of Patrón Tequila. (There's a short article, but most of it is a video.)
• For ABC News, Nick Watt discovers the gin revolution and the return of the Martini. (Article plus video.)
• In the Kansas City Star, Anne Brockoff writes about the growing popularity of shrubs, drinking vinegars that are usually made from various types of fruit.
• Good news! There are some new videos up on The Small Spirit: Robert Hess shows you how to make a Blood and Sand and an Attention.
• Inc. Magazine interviews "rising tequila stars" Moy Guindi and Danny Schneeweiss of Milagro.
• In the Austin American-Statesman, Emma Janzen takes a comprehensive look at what's happening in tequila today.
• On CLASS Magazine, Simon Difford and Ian Cameron round up 5 hazelnut liqueurs. They give top marks to category leader Frangelico.
• Also in CLASS Magazine, Camper English visits Washington, D.C. and reports back on four bars to visit. The only one I've been to is the Columbia Room and I highly recommend it.
• Writing for the Reuters wire, Kara Newman talks about Dawa, Nairobi's "medicinal" cocktail.
• More from Kara Newman, also on Reuters: a trip to Chile to sample some pisco, the traditional South American brandy.
• More pisco news: in The Oregonian, Paul Clarke discusses the spirit's status as the perennial "next big thing."
• On Serious Eats, Will Gordon tries Gosling's pre-made Dark 'n Stormy drink. He gives it the thumbs-up, although wonders how necessary it is. My reaction was pretty much the same.
• In Details Magazine, Christopher Ross says that he's finally found the first good cocktail app: Bartender's Choice. I'm going to have to give it a try.
• On the Whiskey Advocate blog, Mike Miyamoto, master distiller for Suntory, explains Hakusku Japanese whisky.
• The Huffington Post offers up recipes for 10 easy Champagne Cocktails, courtesy of Saveur Magazine.
• Also in the Huffington Post, Tony Sachs suggests a dozen aged tequilas to sip. I haven't tried most of these, but this looks like a really good list.
• On Food Republic, Emily Saladino rounds up the 8 best airlines for drinking. "Hands down, the best airline drinking is on Virgin Atlantic."
• Bacardi has triumphed over Pernod Ricard in their fight to use the Havana Club name in the United States. As a result, Pernod registered a new brand name for the U.S. market, Havanista, in hopes of one day selling Cuban rum here.
• The AP reports that Maker's Mark has won a court case protecting its exclusive use of the wax seal on its bottles.

Buffalo Trace Distillery Releases Col. E.H. Taylor, Jr. Barrel Proof Whiskey

The latest news from Buffalo Trace Distillery, easily one of the most forward-thinking distilleries in the world. They're trying more interesting (and delicious) things with whiskey than anyone else I can think of. If you see a bottle of this, definitely pick it up.

The latest in the Colonel E. H. Taylor, Jr. Bourbon Collection from Buffalo Trace Distillery is an extraordinary barrel proof, uncut, unfiltered rye recipe bourbon.

Weighing in at a hefty 134.5 proof, this small batch bourbon was aged for seven years on the sixth floor of Buffalo Trace’s Warehouse C, built by Colonel Taylor in 1881.

When your experience this uncut and unfiltered Bourbon, “an aroma of cooked, berries meets the nose, followed by a rich caramel and slightly floral smell. The taste is bold – full of spice that fills the mouth with a distinct flavor of toasty vanilla, dried oak and pepper.  The finish is long and satisfying with a powerful rye character and lingering hints of fruit."

The Barrel Proof Bourbon is the fourth in the line of the E. H. Taylor, Jr. collection of whiskeys to be released over the next few years. It joins the Old Fashioned Sour Mash Bourbon, Single Barrel Bourbon and Warehouse C Tornado Surviving Bourbon released within the past year.  Like the previous three releases, this Barrel Proof Bourbon will have very limited availability and will be packaged in a vintage label and canister reminiscent of Taylor’s bottles nearly one hundred years ago

Taylor is widely considered one of the founding fathers of the bourbon industry, fighting for the Bottled-in-Bond Act of 1897, nearly three decades after he purchased the distillery that is known today as the Buffalo Trace Distillery. During his time, Taylor implemented several innovative methods still used today by Buffalo Trace, such as climate controlled aging warehouses. In addition to his bourbon interests, Taylor had political ties. He was the great-nephew of President Zachary Taylor and elected the mayor of Frankfort, state representative to the Kentucky General Assembly and a member of the State Senate.

The Col. E.H. Taylor, Jr. Barrel Proof Bourbon will be available in June.  Suggested retail pricing is $69.99 for a 750 ml bottle.

Cocktail of the Day: Red Berry Delicious

Red Berry Delicious

1 1/2 oz Raspberry Vodka
1/2 oz Solerno Blood Orange Liqueur
1/2 oz Licor 43
3 Large Srawberries
1 oz Lemon Juice
1/2 oz Demerara Sugar Syrup

In a mixing glass, muddle the strawberries with the lemon juice and sugar syrup. Add the remaining ingredients and shake with ice. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. (If you don't want little pieces of strawberry floating in it, you can double strain it.)

Adapted from a recipe by Charlotte Voisey.

Ten Suggestions For Bourbon Beginners

Chuck Cowdery is a bourbon expert and a member of the Kentucky Bourbon Hall of Fame. He writes for The Whisky Advocate, WHISKY Magazine and other places. So when the man talks bourbon, he's worth listening to.

Chuck has compiled a list of 10 bourbons for beginners, and I think it's the best list of its kind that I've seen. These are great recommendations.

I'm going to list his suggestions below, but make sure to click through to Chuck's website to read his commentary.

1.  Maker's Mark (Beam Inc.)
2.  Knob Creek (Beam Inc.)
3.  Woodford Reserve (Brown-Forman) 
4.  Eagle Rare Single Barrel (Sazerac) 
5.  Bulleit (Diageo) 
6.  Evan Williams Single Barrel Vintage (Heaven Hill) 
7.  Russell's Reserve Bourbon (Campari America) 
8.  Ridgemont Reserve 1792 (Sazerac) 
9.  Four Roses (Kirin) 
10.  Weller 12-Year-Old (Sazerac)

I have not yet tried all of these whiskeys, but the ones I've had are excellent. Any of these would make a worth addition to your liquor cabinet.

The sun shines bright on my old Kentucky home...